EEC Repairing?

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EEC Repairing?

Postby FoxRodder » Sun Dec 06, 2009 7:53 pm

Hey guys, I've had a few EECs flake out on me in past. First time car had several problems, including running like crap, hesitation on accel, rpms not staying up when rolling, no start when warm. Second one stopped advancing the timing(stayed on 10 at all times).

So anyways, I found an A9M in my closet which I think was the first one that failed on me. I thought I'd open it up and see if anything obvious stood out. Well I think I found the problem. It looks like one of those capacitors (the blue/green cylinders) leaked out onto the traces and caused multiple problems. Its blue/green corrosion looking stuff that looks like flowed down onto the board. Is something like that a difficult thing to repair? I'm wondering how much it costs to send an EEC out to a professional. I don't need it but with my experiences its best to have spares.
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Re: EEC Repairing?

Postby cgrey8 » Sun Dec 06, 2009 8:06 pm

As long as the traces are still in good shape, the cap can most likely be replaced. However that's only repairing damaged parts that you can see are damaged. That doesn't correct things that are hidden. With some luck, it is only that CAP that is bad and if replaced, you'll have a fully working and reliable EEC again. Look to RadioShack or some local electronics parts place for single component sourcing. You need to know what the µF and voltage rating of the cap. If you can't tell what it used to be, then you'll either need to find that info from a good EEC or have a good EEC's cap tested. I doubt you'll be finding an electrical schematic detailing out what that cap is.

If you find that this doesn't fix the EEC, then another option is to use the damaged EEC as a core-return for a remanufactured one from Advance/AutoZone/Napa. From what I understand, reman EECs from parts houses run ~$100 with a core return.
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Re: EEC Repairing?

Postby FoxRodder » Mon Dec 07, 2009 12:02 pm

Yea I was thinking maybe someone would know what those caps are because there is actually several of the same blue/green ones in the EECs. Could probably now that I think of it just steal one out of another random junkyard EEC.

I did get a reman EEC from autozone with a trade in, however, they do not have all the different models and you could end up with anything. Figure they don't end up with too many A9Ls, A9Ps, etc because anyone that parts or junks a 5.0 usually takes out anything worth money. They also paint over the tags and who knows if they swap cases around.
Sonic 87GT, 2000GT

87GT: Converted to MAF, QH, EA/BE, A9L, LC-1, FMS 42#,Walbro 255, 90mmLMAF, AFR165, Explorer intake/Tmoss ported lower, 65mm tb, Stock Cam, Cobra 1.7 RR, Shorty Headers, 2.5 X pipe, Magnaflow Catback, 4.10s, Vortech A-Trim displacement replacement, UPR Boost Master pipe, Contour dual fans w/Delta Controller, 3G Alt, Susp...Brakes...yada yada
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Re: EEC Repairing?

Postby cgrey8 » Mon Dec 07, 2009 12:10 pm

While they do paint over the case, they pretty much always give you what is proper for your application. So there's little worry in buying an 89 Mustang GT EEC and getting a Crown Vic EEC. Even if the EEC did actually come out of a Crown Vic, they would replace the ROM chip inside with a chip programmed to serve up a GT-approved tune. I think the most common reman EECs are A9P (for automatics) and A3M1 (for manuals). The A3M1 is almost identical to the A9L tune, but was introduced in the GTs somewhere around 92 I think??

I've compared the A3M1 with an A9L a few differnet times and the parameters that are different are not performance related parameters.
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Re: EEC Repairing?

Postby dualdj1 » Mon Dec 07, 2009 1:25 pm

I've dealt with these guys a lot getting caps to repair dell computers:

http://badcaps.net/

If anyone's going to have a replacement, they should have it. You'll need cap physical diameter/height, then voltage, and farad rating. He has good quality stuff which will likely be better that what was there originally, and is good price.
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Re: EEC Repairing?

Postby BobCat » Tue Dec 15, 2009 10:06 pm

The uF is really all that matters for this application and most of the ones that I see blown are the 37uF cap that is used to trigger the CEL. Almost all of the bad EEC's that I repair are due to running the wrong O2 sensor harness/ECM combination. You MUST run an Auto O2 harness with an Auto ECM and vise versa or you will burn up the cap or even traces on the board.

If you can't find the replacement parts let me know as I stock them to repair about 50% of the EEC-IV's that come into the shop for tuning.
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